26/08: My Birthday...
...and a happy day it was. Surfed 3 sessions. Woke up in the van, side by side with John, both of us wrapped up tight in mummy-bag sleeping bags. Slide open the dewey van window to see double overhead+ Margaret River main break, early morning blustery offshores, and bumpy conditions. I surfed it for an hour before heading up to town to get the exhaust leak repaired on the van (she sounds like a Mexican Bus with no muffler), but the part is not in at the mechanics shop yet...so back down to the coast to check a new spot, Ellensbrook Bombie, going off, and big. The wind drops off to a light offshore and we have 2 hours of huge left perfection, big sets, just myself, John, and one other guy who was so happy to have someone else out with him. Then the wind went a little too south and sea breezes killed it, opting to go in for a leftover curry on rice lunch on the overlook. Then north to Gracetown to surf South Point, super fun left hander with protection from the south wind, a take off in front of the rocks feel, with a soft and fun wall, kinda like Deadman's meets The Fort. We enjoyed sunset out there, waiting for the sets, getting a few good ones.
Burritos for dinner, tea and biscuits for dessert, too tired to read more than a chapter of my book before crashing. I got one present. John gave me a book on The Bluff that we were admiring in the book store on a walk through town the other day, sneaky guy got away and got it for me as a surprise. It was a perfect day.
But the real "presence" that i received were having John down here with me, seeing dolphins take off deep on double overhead sets and launching out the back of the wave on the inside, the seals that were warming their flippers in the sun, super friendly Aussies ready to talk, check out your surfboard, or in the case of one old fella, practice the rehearsed rant on American politics that he had been practicing in front of the TV at home. Good times on the road.
Happy Birthday.
Burritos for dinner, tea and biscuits for dessert, too tired to read more than a chapter of my book before crashing. I got one present. John gave me a book on The Bluff that we were admiring in the book store on a walk through town the other day, sneaky guy got away and got it for me as a surprise. It was a perfect day.
But the real "presence" that i received were having John down here with me, seeing dolphins take off deep on double overhead sets and launching out the back of the wave on the inside, the seals that were warming their flippers in the sun, super friendly Aussies ready to talk, check out your surfboard, or in the case of one old fella, practice the rehearsed rant on American politics that he had been practicing in front of the TV at home. Good times on the road.
Happy Birthday.